The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the London's vibrant 1990s creative scene, moving from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That time was the zenith of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the growth of far-right politics, the backlash against social awareness, and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the previous decade, today a more divisive political figure looms as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.

In Enninful's view, the response has always been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of influential figures from politics.

"People with a voice should use it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it refused my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this phase will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would shape a groundbreaking career marked by fearlessness and representation. Enninful set a precedent as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since departing his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"I’ve always questioned the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was painfully reserved. My teachers declared I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … all that gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Defying the stereotype of fashion editors as loud and temperamental, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His life has not been immune to adversity, including openly discussed periods of depression and substance use.

He has also endured serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, not working, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This drive to be defined narrowly has led him beyond the industry that established him. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who did not receive due recognition at the time.

"Institutions often failed to promote the right artists because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he states.

The magazine 72 itself uses a unique approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a demonstration to the power of defying expectations.

How would the younger Edward react to the Edward of today? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "I never take anything for granted. We were displaced, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."