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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.